Short answer
Check the slope (at least 2 in 12 for most standard rolls), fix the deck, then install drip edge and felt. Cut the roll into 12 to 18 foot sheets and let them relax flat in the sun. Fasten 9 inch starter strips along the eaves and rakes, then lay the first full course flush with the edges and nail its top edge about 4 inches apart. Each next course covers those nails by at least 1 inch and is set in lap cement. Stagger end laps, use thin even cement, and cover every nail.
Before you start
Measure the slope. GAF and TAMKO say their standard mineral surface rolls may not go on slopes below 2 inches per foot (GAF, TAMKO), and the model code sets an absolute floor of 1 inch per foot (IRC R905.5). Flatter than your wrapper allows? Use a peel-and-stick system instead. Pick a dry, calm day of at least 50 F.
What you need
- Mineral surface roll roofing roof area / 100, plus about 10 percentFind it
- #15 roofing felt TAMKO recommends felt over the entire deckFind it
- Drip edge eaves and rakesFind it
- Lap cement thin, even coats; about 2 gal per 100 sq ftFind it
- Galvanized roofing nails 10 to 12 gauge, 3/8 in head, through the deckFind it
- Roofing hammerFind it
- Utility knife with hook bladesFind it
- Chalk line and tape measureFind it
- Trowel or brush for cement
- Fall protection harness kit or roof brackets on high or steep roofsFind it
How to install roll roofing, step by step
Prepare the deck
Remove the old roofing if you are not re-covering, pull or drive every nail, and replace soft or rotten boards. GAF wants a smooth, dry deck of well seasoned boards no wider than 6 inches or at least 3/8 inch exterior plywood or OSB, with metal nailed over gaps or knot holes larger than 1/4 inch (GAF). Sweep it clean.
Install drip edge and underlayment
Fit drip edge along the eaves. Roll felt horizontally from the eave up, lapping each course at least 2 inches over the one below and 4 inches where ends meet (TAMKO). In ice dam areas on heated buildings, put ice barrier at the eaves first. Then fit drip edge on the rakes, over the felt.
Cut and relax the sheets
On the ground, unroll the roofing and cut it into 12 to 18 foot lengths. Lay the sheets flat in warm sun until they relax, so they will not buckle or ripple on the roof. Both GAF and TAMKO call for this.
Fasten starter strips
Cut 9 inch wide strips and fasten them along the eaves and rakes, overhanging the deck by 1/4 to 3/8 inch, with two rows of nails as TAMKO’s diagram shows. The starter gives the first course something to cement to.
Lay and nail the first course
Snap a chalk line. Lay the first full width sheet with its edges flush with the eave and rake. Nail along the top edge about 4 inches apart, slightly staggered. Lift the lower edge and press it firmly into cement on the starter strip.
Lap the next course and cement it
Position the next course so it covers the nails of the course below by at least 1 inch (TAMKO uses a 3 inch top lap). Spread a thin, even band of lap cement on the lap area, press the upper course into it, then nail its top edge the same way. Excess cement causes blisters.
Stagger the end laps
Where two sheets meet end to end, lap them about 4 inches and cement the lap. Vary the sheet lengths between 12 and 18 feet so end laps do not line up course over course.
Finish the ridge and edges
Work up to the ridge. On a gable roof, cover the ridge with a strip of roll roofing cemented over the last courses on both sides, as your wrapper shows. Trim the rake edges neatly and make sure no nails are left exposed: TAMKO says to cover any with plastic asphalt roofing cement.
Inspect and protect
Walk the laps (carefully) and press down any edge that is not bonded. In hot weather, keep foot traffic off the fresh roof; GAF warns it scuffs. Check again after the first hard rain.
Mistakes that cause leaks
- Too little slope for the product. Check the wrapper before buying, not after.
- Exposed nails. Every nail in the field should be covered by the next course or sealed.
- Thick cement. Both makers warn excess cement blisters the roofing.
- Cold rolls. Below the maker’s temperature, rolls crack and cement will not grip.
- Aligned end laps. Stagger them so water cannot follow one seam down the roof.
Next: how to install roofing felt in more detail, or the cost of roll roofing if you are deciding whether to hire it out.
Questions people ask
Can you put roll roofing over shingles?
Sometimes, but check two things first: your local code’s rules for re-covering a roof (including how many layers are allowed and whether the old roof is sound and flat enough), and the roll maker’s instructions for the surface it may go over. Lumpy shingles telegraph through thin roll roofing and make laps hard to seal, so tearing off is often the better job.
Do you nail roll roofing or glue it down?
Both. In the method TAMKO describes, the top edge of each course is nailed about 4 inches apart and the next course covers those nails and is cemented to the course below. Some products and slopes call for a concealed nail method with more cement. Follow your wrapper.
Which way do you roll out roll roofing?
Usually horizontally, parallel to the eaves, starting at the bottom so each course overlaps the one below like shingles. TAMKO notes its roll roofing may also be applied vertically, parallel to the rakes.
How cold is too cold to install roll roofing?
TAMKO says not below 50 F unless precautions are taken. GAF says rolls and cement must be at least 45 F when applied, and to store them for 24 hours at 55 F or warmer first. Cold rolls crack and cement gets stiff.
How much lap cement do I need?
GAF’s instructions give about 2 gallons per 100 square feet. Both makers warn that too much cement causes blistering, so spread it thin and even.
See mineral surface roll roofing on Amazon
Sources
Last reviewed October 12, 2026. Products and listings change; check the data sheet and wrapper before you buy, follow the maker’s instructions, and check your local building code.